2011 Paradise Springs Meritage: The Challenge of Blending in Virginia

Besides their award-winning Norton, Paradise Spring’s 2011 Meritage (rhymes with heritage) is the big boy of their line up. Just in case you didn’t know or were wondering, Meritage is the American name for Bordeaux blends. It’s kind of like how the English call Bordeaux wines Clarets.

As with all Meritage, this wine consists of several of the noble varietals used for blending in the region of Bordeaux. As you may or may not know, to be a Meritage, it must contain any combination of at least two of the five noble grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. This particular vintage includes 31% Cabernet Franc, 29% Petit Verdot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Malbec.

I can usually determine by the percentages and the varietals what a winemaker is trying to achieve. For example, if I came across a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, it is likely that the Petit Verdot, a stout and tannic grape, is being used to enhance and/or add to the complexity to the blend, especially if one or more of the other varietals are a little leaner from a not so great growing season. That’s why blends are a region like Virginia’s best friend. Winemakers here understand that they can use the best of the harvest to blend a complex and palatable wine that they would otherwise not be able to accomplish with a single varietal.

Looking at Paradise Spring’s array of varietals and percentages, it’s seems pretty even across the board. What does this mean exactly? I’ve noticed that blends in Virginia are all over the place, from two varietals to all five noble grapes. I can only surmise that with most of the Virginia wineries opening their doors within the last decade, they are still experimenting with blends. Of course weather is a major factor here vice California, so the strength of varietals from vintage to vintage changes often.

It’s up to the winemaker’s ability to craft together a good wine with sometimes limited capacity grapes in leaner years, making Virginia one of the best regions in the world to gain experience working through challenging vintages. That being said, I think that the winemaker at Paradise Springs has adapted well to this environment, consistently making top-notch wines that are a great example of Virginia terroir.

Philip Carter Winery 2011 Corotoman

My last blog entry discussing Philip Carter Winery’s Cabernet Franc was less than flattering and, of course, my opinion. But the great news is that I have the pleasure to share with you one of their best, if not THE best, wine they produce: the 2011 Corotoman, a meritage (Bordeaux varietal) blend, popular in Virginia.

Unfortunately, the back label on the wine, while presenting an interesting historical overview of the history of the Virginia man that now lines the bottom of the front label, does not name the varietals used in the blend, nor the percentages. Moreover, their website doesn’t either, which is not surprising, since the varietals and percentages change through the vintages. If you were to go for a tasting at the winery itself, the staff would probably give you the breakdown.

Regardless of the blend, this is without a doubt there best red wine. This full-bodied wine brings to mind an Old World feel with well-structured, smooth tannins ready to take on steaks, or any grilled varieties of lamb, bison, or venison. It has a good nose full of dark fruit and coffee, with the same on the palate. I would not go so far as to say this wine belongs in your cellar for 20 years, but it could stand to age for about five years for added complexity.

I think this wine more than any defines careful, quality Philip Carter production… At least for red wine, meanwhile their Chardonnay is easily their best white, but that’s another blog entry. If you happen to be tasting near Hume, Virginia, make sure to stop by Philip Carter Winery and taste their Corotoman. And while you’re at it, take their wine tour. You won’t be disappointed.

The Donald, Virginia, and Bubbly

Nothing impresses me more than the esprit de entrepreneur, and Donald Trump is the example of what can happen when business talent meets an adventurous risk-taker. Of all the places Trump could have bought a winery, he chose Virginia; and as most Virginian winemakers know, it is difficult cultivating grapes and turning them into fine wine.

When Patricia Kluge filed for bankruptcy after giving it good run at her winery, which she began after receiving a generous divorce settlement from billionaire, John Kluge, Trump scooped it up and put Mrs. Kluge in charge. However, in 2012, Trump decided to part ways with Kluge, and put his son, Eric, in charge.

What does this mean for Trump Winery’s quality? Has it improved under the new regime? I think it’s too early to tell, since it takes time for a winery to transition, especially if the boss has chosen to go in a different direction. I do know that Kluge’s Blanc de Blanc was always a Virginia favorite when it came to sparkling wine, and out of the few wineries in Virginia that produce bubbly in the Champagne Method, Kluge’s was among the best.

Recently, I was at Bottle Stop, a wine bar in historic Occoquan, Virginia, which originally used to sell only Virginia wine, but has since expanded their sales to wines from around the world. When I first entered, I was immediately drawn to the 2008 Trump Rose Brut ($27), which I did not know they produced. I guess I’ve been out of touch for awhile.

For lovers of Prosecco, Cava, and inexpensive bubbly from California, $27 may seem high; but I thought it was quite low considering that most wine in Virginia is usually in the $25 range, and normally higher than that for sparkling wine. For the price, I found the quality to be excellent, and would stand it up to similarly priced Champagnes, and definitely better than any California or Spanish roses.

After tasting the brut rose, composed of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, I found it to be quite satisfying, full of strawberries and cream, with nice, dried raspberries on the finish. I like the dryness that a brut rose brings, because I don’t like my bubbly too sweet, and Trump’s hit the spot, absolutely fulfilling the role as Easter Sunday’s aperitif.

Indeed, Trump’s 2008 Rose Brut is an example of what money and technology can bring to Virginia, but I think of it as investing in a some-what risky venture, that is so far yielding good results. I look forward to tasting the other wines Trump has to offer, and am happy that The Donald chose our commonwealth as home to one of his successful businesses, which all may enjoy.