Weather in Virginia

After a cold and disheartening winter in the DC Metro, March and April were cooler than normal, and it has rained a bit too much for some of the younger vines in Virginia wine country. I’ve heard confirmed and unconfirmed reports that whole varietals have been lost already this spring in Virginia. I was just at Delaplane Cellars Saturday, and was told that they lost all of their Tannat and most of their Merlot. The 2014 vintage is trying it’s best to be a bust.

Depending on the summer weather, there still could be some rallying, but it would need to be low 90s, dry, but not famine dry, and stable temperatures going into October. Based on some predictions, this may be a cooler, wet summer, but God only knows.

I was surprised to hear that Deplane Cellar’s Tannat was lost. Typically, hardy varietals like Tannat withstand a wet spring as long as there’s a nice hot, dry summer. Unfortunately for Virginia the weather is completely unpredictable, and rot can set in before there’s a chance for weather recovery. It will be interesting to see if other sturdy varietals such as Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon, and Chardonnay will survive the year.

The sunny side is if batches are lost but a good bit survives, We may still see some quality wines made, and perhaps a rise in blends, which usually does well here. Virginia has had some ups and downs with the weather in the past, but seasoned winemakers are using their honed skills to turn out great wines despite adverse conditions.

The Donald, Virginia, and Bubbly

Nothing impresses me more than the esprit de entrepreneur, and Donald Trump is the example of what can happen when business talent meets an adventurous risk-taker. Of all the places Trump could have bought a winery, he chose Virginia; and as most Virginian winemakers know, it is difficult cultivating grapes and turning them into fine wine.

When Patricia Kluge filed for bankruptcy after giving it good run at her winery, which she began after receiving a generous divorce settlement from billionaire, John Kluge, Trump scooped it up and put Mrs. Kluge in charge. However, in 2012, Trump decided to part ways with Kluge, and put his son, Eric, in charge.

What does this mean for Trump Winery’s quality? Has it improved under the new regime? I think it’s too early to tell, since it takes time for a winery to transition, especially if the boss has chosen to go in a different direction. I do know that Kluge’s Blanc de Blanc was always a Virginia favorite when it came to sparkling wine, and out of the few wineries in Virginia that produce bubbly in the Champagne Method, Kluge’s was among the best.

Recently, I was at Bottle Stop, a wine bar in historic Occoquan, Virginia, which originally used to sell only Virginia wine, but has since expanded their sales to wines from around the world. When I first entered, I was immediately drawn to the 2008 Trump Rose Brut ($27), which I did not know they produced. I guess I’ve been out of touch for awhile.

For lovers of Prosecco, Cava, and inexpensive bubbly from California, $27 may seem high; but I thought it was quite low considering that most wine in Virginia is usually in the $25 range, and normally higher than that for sparkling wine. For the price, I found the quality to be excellent, and would stand it up to similarly priced Champagnes, and definitely better than any California or Spanish roses.

After tasting the brut rose, composed of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, I found it to be quite satisfying, full of strawberries and cream, with nice, dried raspberries on the finish. I like the dryness that a brut rose brings, because I don’t like my bubbly too sweet, and Trump’s hit the spot, absolutely fulfilling the role as Easter Sunday’s aperitif.

Indeed, Trump’s 2008 Rose Brut is an example of what money and technology can bring to Virginia, but I think of it as investing in a some-what risky venture, that is so far yielding good results. I look forward to tasting the other wines Trump has to offer, and am happy that The Donald chose our commonwealth as home to one of his successful businesses, which all may enjoy.

Paradise Springs Winery 2012 Cabernet Franc

I’ve said it before that Cabernet Franc is the go to red in Virginia, and Paradise Springs Winery excels at its production. The vintage 2012 was a pretty good growing year and thus far has produced some good fruit in some of the Virginia wines I’ve tasted so far. Cabernet Franc, similar to Sauvignon is a tough varietal that grows well in many terroirs, and it definitely does well in Virginia.

Depending on the terroir and the vintage, Cabernet Franc can be medium to full-bodied and is a great wine to enjoy with beef, chicken, and pork, or in its own. This is the second bottle I’ve had by Paradise Springs, and I enjoyed the fruit forward, medium-bodied structure. It was easy drinking on its own, but paired well with marinated chicken, which only served to bring out the wine’s red fruit character. This wine is made to drink now, so if you’re looking for age-worthiness, you won’t find it here, but that’s OK. I found myself eager to purchase another bottle at the next opportunity.

Make sure to taste at Paradise Springs next time you’re in the DC area (it’s the closest winery geographically to the District). I think you’ll be impressed with their line up, and it’s aesthetics. Bring a picnic basket and hangout in the garden, or lounge around on the back deck and listen to live music. Whatever you do, have a glass of Cabernet Franc and taste the potential of Virginia reds.

“Off the Beaten Path,” or More of the Same?

I finally got around to reading Wine Spectator’s winter issue in which one of the feature articles discussed rarely-known wines (Off the Beaten Path: Editor’s Picks 2014, January-February 2014 issue). Normally, I enjoy articles that spend time discussing previously unknown regions, and describing wines that are very different than what most of us think about when countries such as Spain, Argentina, France, and states such as California and Washington are named. But realistically, I’m not that excited when these already well-known wine countries and states are again discussed in a long line of articles previously written about… well… these countries and states. Okay, so some of the wines the editors are discussing are not so well-known, and some of the regions they originate from are probably not represented in your local wine shop, but let’s be honest, it’s not really off the beaten path when the reader is brought back to France, or Italy, or California. If you really want to get off track from well-known regions, check out Idaho Riesling, or Norton in Missouri, or Tannat in Virginia.

For this article, let’s focus on Virginia. In Wine Spectator’s article, they used phrases such as focusing on “wines still considered on the fringe,” and “acceptance of…wines centered [sic] on technical improvements in winemaking.” Frankly speaking, this describes Virginia’s viticulture and winemaking. Another interesting phrase, “vintners have remedied the enological flaws and haphazard viticulture that once obscured many of these wines’ charm and character,” perfectly describes the evolution in Virginia’s pursuit of world-class winemaking. So why is Virginia once again snubbed?

I know for certain that some of the best Virginia wines have made it to wine shops and on wine menus across the United States and Europe. These wines are mostly French varieties, and mostly Bordeaux single varietals and blends of red and white. Perhaps the seemingly Old World style of Virginia wines made from French varietals appeal to Europeans. Nevertheless, their is a market for Virginia wines, and not just in the nearest metropolitan area, Washington, D.C.

One French varietal that stands out in Wine Spectator’s article is Tannat, which literally translates as tannic. Tannat is used mostly in the blends of Cahor in France. The grape has made its way to Uruguay as their national grape, but also to other areas of the wine world including Virginia. The fact that Tannat is the official grape of Uruguay barely earned it a sentence in a section (On the Tannat Trail) about the grape in the greater article. Instead, the writer focused on two areas where it is apparently both surprising and fascinating that the grape is grown at all: Argentina and California. First of all, it doesn’t seem very surprising that Tannat is grown in Argentina, a country that borders Uruguay. It would seem then that a section focused on the varietal would see more discussion in Uruguay, which many would agree is “off the beaten path.” And California… well… I’m willing to bet that Virginia produces more Tannat, and bottles more of it across the commonwealth than in its West Coast rival.

In recent years, people have been looking for different wines to try; to challenge and educate their palates. The editors of Wine Spectator obviously agree, since they devoted a whole article to it. But why write an article about it when more obscure, yet obviously thriving, countries such as England, Morocco, and Bulgaria, and states such as Virginia, Texas, Idaho, and Arizona are more precisely off the beaten path? Are these regions being snubbed? While I look to Wine Spectator’s tasting experts as the “go to” when considering wine around the world, I think it’s high time they truly broaden their horizons .

I Fear the End is Near

My fellow Commonwealth wine lovers: I’m sad to announce… If you’ve not already heard… that Our beloved Vintage Ridge Vineyard and Winery is closing its doors to the public beginning April 1. Though the winery itself is not closing it’s doors for good… they are for sale… only wine club members (that’s me) will be invited quarterly for pick up parties, exclusive dinners, corporate parties, etc.

This is the end of an era, my friends. I began tasting at Vintage Ridge more than four years ago. I was initially impressed with their 2008 Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Over time, their Petit Verdot has smoothed out to become a great example of what I believe is quickly becoming Virginia’s full-bodied, tannic, and age-worthy single variety, similar to Barolo perhaps. Vintage Ridge’s unique sit-down tasting of its wines paired with appetizers composed of Virginia-made products such as cheese, fruit, meats and nuts was an absolute delight. I considered each visit a treat, and loved talking to the owners, Bill and Vicky.

I still look forward to seeing Bill and Vicky and enjoying their wines, but I know that eventually they will sell. This saddens me, although their retirement is well-deserved. Hurry out to Vintage Ridge, my friends. You only have two weekends left… Unless you join the wine club.

Cabernet Franc… Lite

As much as I love many of the wines in Virginia, unfortunately not all are created equal… Not even at a winery you really admire for other excellent wines produced. Remember the allusion I made to a favorite band that made mostly great songs except for a couple?

Tonight I chose Philip Carter Winery’s 2012 Cabernet Franc Nomini Hall to accompany Parmesan turkey and pasta marinara. Typically, Cab Franc has bold tannins, is medium to full-bodied, and dark fruit with accents of green peppers… at least in Virginia. However, Philip Carter’s was more like a New Zealand Pinot Noir than anything approaching a bold Cab Franc typical of such wineries as Barboursville and Vintage Ridge. In fact, my wife, who never cares about wine except to drink it, commented aloud that it was a bit light for a Cab Franc.
I actually doubled checked the bottle to make sure I reached for the right one. Again, my wife commented that it smelled like a strawberry bomb. And again, I’d swear I was sipping a Pinot.

Unfortunately, that’s not a compliment. Although I was not offended by the taste, I was disappointed. The marinara itself overpowered the wine as it would a Pinot, and only served to make it fruitier than it already was. More disappointing is the price. I fully understand why most wineries charge the prices they do for wine, but I will never understand why some wineries actually get away with clearly inferior wine. At $24, this is not on par with other Cab Francs in Virginia, much less California and France. To be fare, I’m not sure if the 2012 vintage was less than impressive for Philip Carter’s source Cab Franc vineyard. So far, it’s the youngest I’ve tasted of this variety in Virginia, however, more age would not help.

Philip Carter Winery is no slouch swill factory, they have excellent Chardonnay, Viognier, and their Corotoman is a fine example of blended reds in Virginia. Perhaps releasing a Cab Franc as a single variety was a bridge too far. It may have been better served as part of a blend. Be that as it may, do not let my opinion of one wine keep you away from one of the best wineries to visit in Virginia. They have a great tasting hall, a very friendly staff, and the greatest wine tour in the Commonwealth. Believe it or not, we ARE wine club members.

Paradise Springs Winery and an Assessment of Virginia Wine

What am I most known for around my circle of friends?  The wine nerd… that annoying guy that always talks about wine and BS that no one but wine snobs care about… It’s a little like art dorks; always describing the “feel,” or how art “stirs the emotions.”  That is of course how us wine nerds “feel” about wine… except that after a few tasting, we are definitely feeling it.  My point?

For those of us that are fortunate enough to live in states or nations that have a sizable wine growing industry, we FEEL lucky.  I mean, who can criticize great-tasting alcohol within reach?  For those who have broken through the barrier of “I like this wine… I don’t like that one,” you have at least begun developing your palate.  In doing so you have begun to understand how wine on your palate begins to stir your emotions (BEFORE the alcohol has set in, of course).  Now, after the transition from “Yum!” to “Hmmmmm,”  you begin to wonder where and how this wine is made.  Holy smokes!!!  You mean I can drive only X miles to VISIT this winery???  So you roll up to the winery that you never knew was near you and lo and behold, they produce several different wines.  Bottom line:  wine seems to be much better when you’re tasting AT the winery (perhaps with some cheese), than when you’re choosing among thousands at your local Total Wine, or wherever, right?  Now, add a well-designed ambiance that includes cool, lounge music, a woodsy decor, terrific, friendly, and KNOWLEDGEABLE service, and most importantly, great wine… I have just described Paradise Springs Winery.

My wife and I visited the winery together for the first time late Saturday afternoon and it was PACKED.  It’s because the wine is really well made, AND it’s because the staff knows what they’re doing and what they’re talking about; and not just concerning the winery.  The staffers understand wine, specifically Virginia wine (because they’ve tasted around the state), but also wines around the world.  Let’s be honest.  When we drink wine, we normally compare it to others we’ve had recently.  when I taste Virginia wine for the first time at a winery I’ve never been too, I instantly compare it to other VA wineries I like, but I also leap to compare to other regions in the world.  In this case, usually France because Virginia wineries produce wines from mostly French grapes (Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Viognier, Chardonnay, etc.)  I simply can’t help comparing Virginia and France because in my opinion I feel that Virginia’s terroir helps produce wine similar to Old World wines, particularly France.  First timers tasting in Virginia:  please don’t compare to California, or you’ll be grossly disappointed.  Go ahead and set your comparison palates to Europe.

Why do I even bother to discuss this?  People can’t help comparing things, and since the red grape of Virginia is Cabernet Franc and the white, Viognier, the unsuspecting patron of a Virginia winery has to understand that both are only made in its single varietal in really two other places:  France and California.  Now here’s where my opinion comes in:  Paradise Springs Winery, as well as others I will focus on in the coming weeks, produce some of the best single variety Cabernet Franc and Viognier in Virginia; AND I STILL have yet to taste California and French versions that wholly compare.  Bold words, huh?  Well, I have taken the Pepsi challenge by blind tasting from each region, and I’ve chosen Virginia Cabernet France five out of the six times (A rare and highly rated French Cabernet Franc won out once).  So when you’re in the DC Metro area, or if you live nearby, visit Paradise Springs Winery.  I know you’ll be surprised, and I’m sure you’ll stick around after the tasting to have a glass.

In case you’re interested in joining their wine club:  three bottles selected by the winery can be sent to your home, or you can pick up, once a quarter (15% discount), and four free tastings for you, the significant other, and two of your closest wine nerd (or virgin) friends each time you visit.  Wine prices from about $22.

Paradise Springs Winery 2012 Chardonnay, Clifton, VA

Paradise Springs Winery has not been on Virginia’s wine map for very long (January 2010), but it has quickly become a favorite in the region.  It is Fairfax County’s only winery, and it did not come along without a fight with the county’s zoning law.  Ultimately, the winery succeeded, and I was fortunate enough to visit recently during a slow, middle of the week afternoon.  On the list for tasting is the 2012 Chardonnay, 2012 Viognier, 2012 Sommet Blanc, 2013, Nan’s Rose, 2012 Cabernet Franc, 2012 Melange, and the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Not on the list, but I was fortunate to taste was their 2012 Norton, a Double Gold winner in the Virginia Wine Lover’s competition, and their Port-style Swagger, Edition I.

Today I’m focusing only on their Chardonnay, which my wife and I greedily drained, pairing it with a Mediterranean-crusted tilapia.  I think most people can agree that it is difficult to mess up white wines, unless the winemaker has no idea what they are doing.  It is not the case here.  This barrel-fermented Chardonnay is every bit as good as one would find in California, Australia, and Chile.  Unlike many Chards in California, however, this winery does not use malolactic fermentation.  Instead, the winemaker ferments and ages it sur lie in French oak for eight months, similar to how winemakers in Montrachet ferment and age their great White Burgundies.  Sur lie wines are bottled directly from the lees without racking, which is a type of process for filtering wines.  This is what gives Chardonnay its toasted, nutty (think hazelnut) quality with added depth and complexity, especially on the finish.  The winery’s tasting notes describes their Chardonnay as “Bright and crisp with flavors of Granny Smith apples, a creamy mid palate, and smooth finish.”  I found all of this and more, with a lasting finish around one minute.

I also bought the 2012 Cabernet Franc, and based on my great tasting experience, I sprung taste unseen for their Meritage (Bordeaux variety blend), expecting it to be big, beautiful, and ready for steak.