2011 Paradise Springs Meritage: The Challenge of Blending in Virginia

Besides their award-winning Norton, Paradise Spring’s 2011 Meritage (rhymes with heritage) is the big boy of their line up. Just in case you didn’t know or were wondering, Meritage is the American name for Bordeaux blends. It’s kind of like how the English call Bordeaux wines Clarets.

As with all Meritage, this wine consists of several of the noble varietals used for blending in the region of Bordeaux. As you may or may not know, to be a Meritage, it must contain any combination of at least two of the five noble grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. This particular vintage includes 31% Cabernet Franc, 29% Petit Verdot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Malbec.

I can usually determine by the percentages and the varietals what a winemaker is trying to achieve. For example, if I came across a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, it is likely that the Petit Verdot, a stout and tannic grape, is being used to enhance and/or add to the complexity to the blend, especially if one or more of the other varietals are a little leaner from a not so great growing season. That’s why blends are a region like Virginia’s best friend. Winemakers here understand that they can use the best of the harvest to blend a complex and palatable wine that they would otherwise not be able to accomplish with a single varietal.

Looking at Paradise Spring’s array of varietals and percentages, it’s seems pretty even across the board. What does this mean exactly? I’ve noticed that blends in Virginia are all over the place, from two varietals to all five noble grapes. I can only surmise that with most of the Virginia wineries opening their doors within the last decade, they are still experimenting with blends. Of course weather is a major factor here vice California, so the strength of varietals from vintage to vintage changes often.

It’s up to the winemaker’s ability to craft together a good wine with sometimes limited capacity grapes in leaner years, making Virginia one of the best regions in the world to gain experience working through challenging vintages. That being said, I think that the winemaker at Paradise Springs has adapted well to this environment, consistently making top-notch wines that are a great example of Virginia terroir.

Philip Carter Winery 2011 Corotoman

My last blog entry discussing Philip Carter Winery’s Cabernet Franc was less than flattering and, of course, my opinion. But the great news is that I have the pleasure to share with you one of their best, if not THE best, wine they produce: the 2011 Corotoman, a meritage (Bordeaux varietal) blend, popular in Virginia.

Unfortunately, the back label on the wine, while presenting an interesting historical overview of the history of the Virginia man that now lines the bottom of the front label, does not name the varietals used in the blend, nor the percentages. Moreover, their website doesn’t either, which is not surprising, since the varietals and percentages change through the vintages. If you were to go for a tasting at the winery itself, the staff would probably give you the breakdown.

Regardless of the blend, this is without a doubt there best red wine. This full-bodied wine brings to mind an Old World feel with well-structured, smooth tannins ready to take on steaks, or any grilled varieties of lamb, bison, or venison. It has a good nose full of dark fruit and coffee, with the same on the palate. I would not go so far as to say this wine belongs in your cellar for 20 years, but it could stand to age for about five years for added complexity.

I think this wine more than any defines careful, quality Philip Carter production… At least for red wine, meanwhile their Chardonnay is easily their best white, but that’s another blog entry. If you happen to be tasting near Hume, Virginia, make sure to stop by Philip Carter Winery and taste their Corotoman. And while you’re at it, take their wine tour. You won’t be disappointed.

Paradise Springs Winery 2012 Cabernet Franc

I’ve said it before that Cabernet Franc is the go to red in Virginia, and Paradise Springs Winery excels at its production. The vintage 2012 was a pretty good growing year and thus far has produced some good fruit in some of the Virginia wines I’ve tasted so far. Cabernet Franc, similar to Sauvignon is a tough varietal that grows well in many terroirs, and it definitely does well in Virginia.

Depending on the terroir and the vintage, Cabernet Franc can be medium to full-bodied and is a great wine to enjoy with beef, chicken, and pork, or in its own. This is the second bottle I’ve had by Paradise Springs, and I enjoyed the fruit forward, medium-bodied structure. It was easy drinking on its own, but paired well with marinated chicken, which only served to bring out the wine’s red fruit character. This wine is made to drink now, so if you’re looking for age-worthiness, you won’t find it here, but that’s OK. I found myself eager to purchase another bottle at the next opportunity.

Make sure to taste at Paradise Springs next time you’re in the DC area (it’s the closest winery geographically to the District). I think you’ll be impressed with their line up, and it’s aesthetics. Bring a picnic basket and hangout in the garden, or lounge around on the back deck and listen to live music. Whatever you do, have a glass of Cabernet Franc and taste the potential of Virginia reds.

“Off the Beaten Path,” or More of the Same?

I finally got around to reading Wine Spectator’s winter issue in which one of the feature articles discussed rarely-known wines (Off the Beaten Path: Editor’s Picks 2014, January-February 2014 issue). Normally, I enjoy articles that spend time discussing previously unknown regions, and describing wines that are very different than what most of us think about when countries such as Spain, Argentina, France, and states such as California and Washington are named. But realistically, I’m not that excited when these already well-known wine countries and states are again discussed in a long line of articles previously written about… well… these countries and states. Okay, so some of the wines the editors are discussing are not so well-known, and some of the regions they originate from are probably not represented in your local wine shop, but let’s be honest, it’s not really off the beaten path when the reader is brought back to France, or Italy, or California. If you really want to get off track from well-known regions, check out Idaho Riesling, or Norton in Missouri, or Tannat in Virginia.

For this article, let’s focus on Virginia. In Wine Spectator’s article, they used phrases such as focusing on “wines still considered on the fringe,” and “acceptance of…wines centered [sic] on technical improvements in winemaking.” Frankly speaking, this describes Virginia’s viticulture and winemaking. Another interesting phrase, “vintners have remedied the enological flaws and haphazard viticulture that once obscured many of these wines’ charm and character,” perfectly describes the evolution in Virginia’s pursuit of world-class winemaking. So why is Virginia once again snubbed?

I know for certain that some of the best Virginia wines have made it to wine shops and on wine menus across the United States and Europe. These wines are mostly French varieties, and mostly Bordeaux single varietals and blends of red and white. Perhaps the seemingly Old World style of Virginia wines made from French varietals appeal to Europeans. Nevertheless, their is a market for Virginia wines, and not just in the nearest metropolitan area, Washington, D.C.

One French varietal that stands out in Wine Spectator’s article is Tannat, which literally translates as tannic. Tannat is used mostly in the blends of Cahor in France. The grape has made its way to Uruguay as their national grape, but also to other areas of the wine world including Virginia. The fact that Tannat is the official grape of Uruguay barely earned it a sentence in a section (On the Tannat Trail) about the grape in the greater article. Instead, the writer focused on two areas where it is apparently both surprising and fascinating that the grape is grown at all: Argentina and California. First of all, it doesn’t seem very surprising that Tannat is grown in Argentina, a country that borders Uruguay. It would seem then that a section focused on the varietal would see more discussion in Uruguay, which many would agree is “off the beaten path.” And California… well… I’m willing to bet that Virginia produces more Tannat, and bottles more of it across the commonwealth than in its West Coast rival.

In recent years, people have been looking for different wines to try; to challenge and educate their palates. The editors of Wine Spectator obviously agree, since they devoted a whole article to it. But why write an article about it when more obscure, yet obviously thriving, countries such as England, Morocco, and Bulgaria, and states such as Virginia, Texas, Idaho, and Arizona are more precisely off the beaten path? Are these regions being snubbed? While I look to Wine Spectator’s tasting experts as the “go to” when considering wine around the world, I think it’s high time they truly broaden their horizons .

I Fear the End is Near

My fellow Commonwealth wine lovers: I’m sad to announce… If you’ve not already heard… that Our beloved Vintage Ridge Vineyard and Winery is closing its doors to the public beginning April 1. Though the winery itself is not closing it’s doors for good… they are for sale… only wine club members (that’s me) will be invited quarterly for pick up parties, exclusive dinners, corporate parties, etc.

This is the end of an era, my friends. I began tasting at Vintage Ridge more than four years ago. I was initially impressed with their 2008 Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Over time, their Petit Verdot has smoothed out to become a great example of what I believe is quickly becoming Virginia’s full-bodied, tannic, and age-worthy single variety, similar to Barolo perhaps. Vintage Ridge’s unique sit-down tasting of its wines paired with appetizers composed of Virginia-made products such as cheese, fruit, meats and nuts was an absolute delight. I considered each visit a treat, and loved talking to the owners, Bill and Vicky.

I still look forward to seeing Bill and Vicky and enjoying their wines, but I know that eventually they will sell. This saddens me, although their retirement is well-deserved. Hurry out to Vintage Ridge, my friends. You only have two weekends left… Unless you join the wine club.

Cabernet Franc… Lite

As much as I love many of the wines in Virginia, unfortunately not all are created equal… Not even at a winery you really admire for other excellent wines produced. Remember the allusion I made to a favorite band that made mostly great songs except for a couple?

Tonight I chose Philip Carter Winery’s 2012 Cabernet Franc Nomini Hall to accompany Parmesan turkey and pasta marinara. Typically, Cab Franc has bold tannins, is medium to full-bodied, and dark fruit with accents of green peppers… at least in Virginia. However, Philip Carter’s was more like a New Zealand Pinot Noir than anything approaching a bold Cab Franc typical of such wineries as Barboursville and Vintage Ridge. In fact, my wife, who never cares about wine except to drink it, commented aloud that it was a bit light for a Cab Franc.
I actually doubled checked the bottle to make sure I reached for the right one. Again, my wife commented that it smelled like a strawberry bomb. And again, I’d swear I was sipping a Pinot.

Unfortunately, that’s not a compliment. Although I was not offended by the taste, I was disappointed. The marinara itself overpowered the wine as it would a Pinot, and only served to make it fruitier than it already was. More disappointing is the price. I fully understand why most wineries charge the prices they do for wine, but I will never understand why some wineries actually get away with clearly inferior wine. At $24, this is not on par with other Cab Francs in Virginia, much less California and France. To be fare, I’m not sure if the 2012 vintage was less than impressive for Philip Carter’s source Cab Franc vineyard. So far, it’s the youngest I’ve tasted of this variety in Virginia, however, more age would not help.

Philip Carter Winery is no slouch swill factory, they have excellent Chardonnay, Viognier, and their Corotoman is a fine example of blended reds in Virginia. Perhaps releasing a Cab Franc as a single variety was a bridge too far. It may have been better served as part of a blend. Be that as it may, do not let my opinion of one wine keep you away from one of the best wineries to visit in Virginia. They have a great tasting hall, a very friendly staff, and the greatest wine tour in the Commonwealth. Believe it or not, we ARE wine club members.

Springlot for Spring

I’ll be biased… since it’s my blog… Delaplane Cellars is in the top five of my favorite wineries in Virginia. You remember the old days when you had to go to the record store and buy your music. You had a favorite band and you loved most of their songs, but there were always a few tracks that didn’t live up to the band’s potential, you thought. That’s how I feel about many wineries in Virginia, but not Delaplane. They have an award winning lineup from whites to rose to reds.

One of the brightest stars in Delaplane’s cellar is their 2012 Springlot. Now, this Cabernet Franc-dominated blend has been around a few years, and it has always shown great character, but 2012 is the exception. The 2012 vintage was released this winter, and the owners, Jim and Betsy Dolphin, write that they believe it is “the softest and smoothest Springlot we’ve ever made.” I agree. With a wonderful, enticing nose, its smooth tannins and medium body glides around the palate like silk with loads of dark cherries, a bit of black currant, and some black berries, which rounds out the soft but luxurious frame. It posses a New World, yet mature, character that I believe could be enjoyed by both Old and New World fans alike.

With a blend of 48% Cabernet Franc, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 8% Petit Verdot, it “was blended just before bottling,” and aged for 15 months in 1/3 new French oak. If you’ve not yet tasted the 2012 Springlot, I suggest you don’t hesitate. Delaplane Cellars is a boutique winery, and they are accomplished at selling their wines quickly once released. Drink now with roasted chicken or rack of lamb.

Paradise Springs Winery and an Assessment of Virginia Wine

What am I most known for around my circle of friends?  The wine nerd… that annoying guy that always talks about wine and BS that no one but wine snobs care about… It’s a little like art dorks; always describing the “feel,” or how art “stirs the emotions.”  That is of course how us wine nerds “feel” about wine… except that after a few tasting, we are definitely feeling it.  My point?

For those of us that are fortunate enough to live in states or nations that have a sizable wine growing industry, we FEEL lucky.  I mean, who can criticize great-tasting alcohol within reach?  For those who have broken through the barrier of “I like this wine… I don’t like that one,” you have at least begun developing your palate.  In doing so you have begun to understand how wine on your palate begins to stir your emotions (BEFORE the alcohol has set in, of course).  Now, after the transition from “Yum!” to “Hmmmmm,”  you begin to wonder where and how this wine is made.  Holy smokes!!!  You mean I can drive only X miles to VISIT this winery???  So you roll up to the winery that you never knew was near you and lo and behold, they produce several different wines.  Bottom line:  wine seems to be much better when you’re tasting AT the winery (perhaps with some cheese), than when you’re choosing among thousands at your local Total Wine, or wherever, right?  Now, add a well-designed ambiance that includes cool, lounge music, a woodsy decor, terrific, friendly, and KNOWLEDGEABLE service, and most importantly, great wine… I have just described Paradise Springs Winery.

My wife and I visited the winery together for the first time late Saturday afternoon and it was PACKED.  It’s because the wine is really well made, AND it’s because the staff knows what they’re doing and what they’re talking about; and not just concerning the winery.  The staffers understand wine, specifically Virginia wine (because they’ve tasted around the state), but also wines around the world.  Let’s be honest.  When we drink wine, we normally compare it to others we’ve had recently.  when I taste Virginia wine for the first time at a winery I’ve never been too, I instantly compare it to other VA wineries I like, but I also leap to compare to other regions in the world.  In this case, usually France because Virginia wineries produce wines from mostly French grapes (Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Viognier, Chardonnay, etc.)  I simply can’t help comparing Virginia and France because in my opinion I feel that Virginia’s terroir helps produce wine similar to Old World wines, particularly France.  First timers tasting in Virginia:  please don’t compare to California, or you’ll be grossly disappointed.  Go ahead and set your comparison palates to Europe.

Why do I even bother to discuss this?  People can’t help comparing things, and since the red grape of Virginia is Cabernet Franc and the white, Viognier, the unsuspecting patron of a Virginia winery has to understand that both are only made in its single varietal in really two other places:  France and California.  Now here’s where my opinion comes in:  Paradise Springs Winery, as well as others I will focus on in the coming weeks, produce some of the best single variety Cabernet Franc and Viognier in Virginia; AND I STILL have yet to taste California and French versions that wholly compare.  Bold words, huh?  Well, I have taken the Pepsi challenge by blind tasting from each region, and I’ve chosen Virginia Cabernet France five out of the six times (A rare and highly rated French Cabernet Franc won out once).  So when you’re in the DC Metro area, or if you live nearby, visit Paradise Springs Winery.  I know you’ll be surprised, and I’m sure you’ll stick around after the tasting to have a glass.

In case you’re interested in joining their wine club:  three bottles selected by the winery can be sent to your home, or you can pick up, once a quarter (15% discount), and four free tastings for you, the significant other, and two of your closest wine nerd (or virgin) friends each time you visit.  Wine prices from about $22.

Paradise Springs Winery 2012 Chardonnay, Clifton, VA

Paradise Springs Winery has not been on Virginia’s wine map for very long (January 2010), but it has quickly become a favorite in the region.  It is Fairfax County’s only winery, and it did not come along without a fight with the county’s zoning law.  Ultimately, the winery succeeded, and I was fortunate enough to visit recently during a slow, middle of the week afternoon.  On the list for tasting is the 2012 Chardonnay, 2012 Viognier, 2012 Sommet Blanc, 2013, Nan’s Rose, 2012 Cabernet Franc, 2012 Melange, and the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Not on the list, but I was fortunate to taste was their 2012 Norton, a Double Gold winner in the Virginia Wine Lover’s competition, and their Port-style Swagger, Edition I.

Today I’m focusing only on their Chardonnay, which my wife and I greedily drained, pairing it with a Mediterranean-crusted tilapia.  I think most people can agree that it is difficult to mess up white wines, unless the winemaker has no idea what they are doing.  It is not the case here.  This barrel-fermented Chardonnay is every bit as good as one would find in California, Australia, and Chile.  Unlike many Chards in California, however, this winery does not use malolactic fermentation.  Instead, the winemaker ferments and ages it sur lie in French oak for eight months, similar to how winemakers in Montrachet ferment and age their great White Burgundies.  Sur lie wines are bottled directly from the lees without racking, which is a type of process for filtering wines.  This is what gives Chardonnay its toasted, nutty (think hazelnut) quality with added depth and complexity, especially on the finish.  The winery’s tasting notes describes their Chardonnay as “Bright and crisp with flavors of Granny Smith apples, a creamy mid palate, and smooth finish.”  I found all of this and more, with a lasting finish around one minute.

I also bought the 2012 Cabernet Franc, and based on my great tasting experience, I sprung taste unseen for their Meritage (Bordeaux variety blend), expecting it to be big, beautiful, and ready for steak.